|"gelati", M8, 70m|
|ice on left upper part "inachevee conception" WI5+/M6, middle & right, "empire strikes back" & "jedi master", M10-11|
|french climber seconding "hard ice direct", WI6|
|left "pattinaggio artistico" (upper part WI3/180m) direct mixed line to get to the easy ice is M7+, right full view of "hard ice in the rock" WI4/300m with the direct column below|
|lower part of "pattinaggio artistic direct" in M7+ conditions|
There were 4-5 French rope teams on "Hard Ice" which made it impossible for me to safely get on. It was a similar story with "Inachevee Conception". With so much hanging ice in these types of routes the danger of falling ice is just too great.
Other, less popular routes that have formed, and are very attractive because there are fewer climbers vying for the ascent. There was one rope team working out the moves on "Gelati". Further in the vally, past "Stella Artice" and the roofs of "Inacevee Conception", the routes "A la memoire du bouquet in" WI5+/100m is in top condition (no one on it on Friday) and so is "Tchao Felix" WI5+, A1, X/300m. Because of the massiveness of the lower hanging ice, I think the climb is doable without the A1 move. There was a British couple working out the climb.
There was also one rope team on the climb, "Riacamo" WI5+/100m which is between "Gelati" and "Hard Ice". "Riacamo" is thin but looks climbable and stable, but difficult to protect.
|smeary, thin, delicate ice of "riacamo", looks harder than WI5+|