Sunday, March 5, 2017

Looking Back

austrian alpine ice climbing
Climbing in Cogne
Here it is the 5th of March. I haven't posted anything since mid-December. I justify this by thinking of  a quote from Mark Twight who said once you start spending more time writing and talking about your alpine exploits then that is a clear sign that your going downhill and moving into Poserville.

Don't want that to happen, so no posting. Solves that problem pretty nicely.

But ... I get so much from reading some good stuff from people and I would like to think that I can contribute a small bit. So, once again I think I'll try to do better. Life is however taking action and doing, not talking about it or writing about it.

I have been doing a lot of ice climbing this season, which makes up somewhat for the dismal season in Europe in 2015-2016. Here is one of the best things I came across recently related to ice climbing from Will Gadd. I have really learned so much from him through his book (which is now getting a bit outdated - hey Will, how about doing a new version???) and the great things he has posted through the years on his blog and website.

The week before Christmas I was in the Aosta valley ice climbing. I spent Christmas in Chamonix, but unfortunately there wasn't much snow and no ice around, so I went back through the tunnel to Aosta for a few more days post-Christmas.

Then I began a pretty heavy schedule of activities for the Salzburg Alpenverein: a handful of ice climbing courses, an avalanche course, an off-piste ski technique day and a ski touring course. In between all the courses there was a mid-February trip to Cogne for almost two-weeks of ice climbing. In the past couple of weeks I have been on my skis either ski touring or free-riding just seeming to find adequate snow conditions.

In addition to all this stuff, I have been trying to keep my sport climbing fitness up to speed with indoor training (It is not really going so well!) and keeping up with my clients who have personal training with me climbing indoors.

It's funny to think about it but a number of times I feel like I'm not doing enough, or I could be doing things a bit better. Scrolling through some of the photos on my computer, I realise that I have had an active few months and I don't know how I could have done more. Just goes to show you that never being satisfied, or thinking that you could do better, is part of the human condition.

Rope technique for ice climbing

Lisa climbing WI3+ during a beginner course

Wolfgang training technique during an intermediate course

Beginner Course group in Maltatal

Demonstrating "swing like you mean it!" during course work

Manfred concentrating while on first ice lead

Obertauern off-piste ski technique
Ice climbing technique day in Gastein valley

Route planning in Lillaz cafe (Cogne)

Top of the Kesselspitze during a ski touring course

Monday, December 12, 2016

Early Season (2016/17) Ice in Gasteinertal (Gastein Valley)

The photos are from the first Sunday in December, 04.12.2016. I have been in the Gastein valley three times now to climb some early season ice. The pictures are from various side valleys at the end of the main valley, in Bockstein and Nassfeld.

If you zoom-in on the photo above you'll see a rope team in this moderate classic. Of course the various climbs that are formed are more serious and technically more difficult than their guidebook ratings. The ice is more fickle to protect and not as compact and steeper as it is not filled in. 

A benefit of the lack of snow is that the threat of avalanches is non-existent in all the climbs to the right of the toll road unto Sport Gastein. There are two or three falls that are well enough formed (on 04.-09.12.2016) but will be much more susceptible to any weather and temperature fluctuations.


At the higher elevations in the Siglitz valley, the easier long embedded ice is compact and thickly built up. Additionally, the lack of snow makes all the low-angle climbs visible and fun to climb without their normal covering of snow to slog through in the flatter sections.

Specifically, I have climbed Federweis, Dopple Lutscher, Siglitzfall, Siglitz Coulior and some other easy lines at the back right side of the Siglitz valley in the direction of the Niedersachsenhaus under the Riffelscharte.

As of today, 12.12.2016, we have had some warmer, damp air move into the area and the ice conditions in the Gastein valley are pretty sensitive to any changes. On the 8th of December, it was already clear that it was a bit more humid and the higher moisture level in the air was effecting the ice. The Link Dopple Lutscher was running with water at 13:00.

As at the start of every ice season, it is best to be conservative in your choices and stay well within your ability level. You also have to be willing to just take your tools for a walk and check out things, leaving them for another day.

Monday, December 5, 2016

Schitechnik im Gelände, 11.12.2016 - UPDATE!

Den AV-Salzburg Alpine Ausbildungkurs, "Schitechnik im Gelände" am So. 11.12.2016 werden nur auf dem Piste durchgeführt. Leider, gibt es viel zu wenig Schnee den Kurs im Gelände zu machen.

Jeder Teilnehmer können allen technischen Skiübungen fürs Gelände auf dem Piste lernen und ausüben.

Sonst, als Ersatztermin mit (hoffentlich!) Skifahren im Gelände, kann ich den Freitag, 20. Jänner 2017 anbieten.

Jeder Kursteilnehmer können selbständig Entscheiden ob die den Kurs am 11.12.2016 mitmachen, warten auf den Ersatztermin oder beides machen (natürlich auch mit zusätzliches Gebühr). Mehr Infos oder beim Fragen, bitte mit 'Contact Form' (rechts) bei mir melden.

Friday, November 11, 2016

Alpenverein Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung

Meinen Kurse und Übungstouren sind On-Line für dem Alpenverein Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung Programm!

In Winter 2016/2017 biete ich Kurse in Schitouren, Skifahren im Gelände, Eisklettern für Anfänger, Eisklettern Fortgeschritten und Eisklettern Übungstouren für Anfänger und Erfahrene


Kurse & Übungstouren:


1) Schitouren Grundkurs - Anmelden!
Fr. 02. Dez. (Start um 09:00 vor Ort) - So. 04. Dez. 2016
Ort: Obertauern oder Kaprun (je nach Schneelage)
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

2) Schitechnik im Gelände - Anmelden!
So. 11. Dez. 2016 (Start um 09:00 vor Ort)
Ort: Obertauern
Treffpunkt: Grundwaldkopfbahn Talstation, 09:00 Uhr - Mitfahrgelegenheit von Salzburg 07:00 Uhr

3) Eisklettern Anfänger - Anmelden!
Do. 05. Jän. (Start 18:30 Maltainerhof) - Sa. 07. Jän. 2017
Übungstour für Eisklettern Anfänger, So. 08. Jän. 2017
Ort: Maltatal
Treffpunkt: Gasthof Maltainerhof, Malta, 18:30 Uhr (Gruppe Abendessen)

4) Eisklettern Übungstour
Sa. 21. Jän. 2017
Ort: Gasteinertal
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

5) Eisklettern Fortgeschrittene - Anmelden!
Do. 26. Jän. (Start um 18:30 Malteinerhof) - So. 29. Jän. 2017
Ort: Maltatal
Treffpunkt: Gasthof Maltainerhof, Malta, 18:30 Uhr (Gruppe Abendessen)

6) Eisklettern Übungstour
Sa. 04. Feb. 2017
Ort: Gasteinertal
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

Fragen, Details, Mehr Infos, usw., würde ich gern helfen, bitte bei mir einfach melden

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Kalymnos Climbing Instruction 2016


I will be in Kalymnos starting in mid-May 2016 this season. In late spring, Kalymnos offers a perfect climbing training environment for getting ready for the climbing season in Europe. May in Kalymnos offers secure, stable weather and conditions for all-day climbing in warm, yet very comfortable temperatures before the onset of  the summer heat.

I am also planning on working with clients on Kalymnos through the summer and from the end of September through October 2016. The fall season on the island is wonderful. All-day climbing is possible, the temperatures are comfortable and the Aegean Sea is still warm and inviting for a post climb swim or rest day at the beach.


The route development on Kalymnos is second to none. You can find an almost unlimited choice of routes matching your climbing ability. Due to the make up of the routes, perfect weather and abundant climbing sectors, one can climb more in a week than in an entire season in the European Alps. There are many multi-pitch routes of up to 10 or 11 rope lengths as well as a multitude of great 2 and 3 pitch multi-pitch training routes too.


I have been going to Kalymnos for more than 10 years, actually since the beginning of the development of climbing on the island. I have a wealth of knowledge about the climbing sectors, routes and options, plus logistical knowledge of accommodations, restaurants, transfers, services, etc. I can help with giving all kinds of information, reserve accommodations, book scooter or car rental, arrange for taxi transfers, pass along current ferry transfer timetables from Kos, etc.

This means that one has the freedom and flexibility to find a inexpensive flight and allow me to help in all other areas.

To make arrangements, or get more information, contact me using the form on the right and I will gladly assist you.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

Kalymnos Kletterunterricht & Kurse 2016


Ich werde in dieser Saison ab Mitte Mai 2016 auf Kalymnos. Die Sportklettern paradise Kalymnos bietet im späten Frühling eine perfekte Klettertrainingsumgebung. Dort kann Mann für die Kletterseason in Europa sehr günstig vorbereiten. Mai in Kalymnos bietet sichere, stabil Wetter und die Bedingungen für Klettern den ganzen Tag in den warmen, sehr angenehme Temperaturen.

Ich plane, auch mit Kunden auf Kalymnos über den Sommer und von Ende September bis Ende Oktober 2016 arbeiten. Die Herbstsaison auf der Insel einfach wunderbar ist. All-Tag Klettern ist möglich, die Temperaturen sind angenehm und die Ägäis ist noch warm und einladend für apre Klettern schwimmen gehen oder eine Ruhetag am Strand genießen.

die Routenentwicklung auf Kalymnos ist unübertroffen. Sie können eine nahezu unbegrenzte Auswahl an Routen für Ihre Kletterfähigkeit finden. Aufgrund der Make-up die Routen, perfektes Wetter und reichlich Kletter Sektoren,  können ein Kletterer in einer Woche mehr klettern als in einer ganzen Saison in den europäischen Alpen. Es gibt viele Mehrseillaengentouren von bis zu 10 oder 11 Seillängen sowie eine Vielzahl von Top-Level 2 und 3 Pitch Mehrseillängen Ausbildungtouren.

Ich habe seit mehr als 10 Jahren Kalymnos regelmassig besucht, eigentlich seit dem Beginn der Kletterentwicklung auf der Insel. Ich habe eine Fülle von Wissen über die Klettergebiete, Routen und Optionen sowie logistische Kenntnisse an Unterkünften, Restaurants, Transfers, Dienstleistungen, usw. Ich kann in alle Arten von Informationen, Unterkünfte reservieren, Scooters oder Mietwagen buchen, Taxi Transfers arrangieren, sowie aktuelle Ferry Fahrpläne von Kos, usw, mithelfen.

Das bedeutet, dass man die Freiheit und Flexibilität hat einen kostengünstigen Flug zu finden und erlauben Sie mir, in alle anderen organisatorisches Bereiche zu helfen.

Um etwas genau zu organisieren, oder weitere Informationen zu erhalten, kontaktieren Sie mich ("Contact Form" Rechts) und werde ich ihnen gerne helfen.

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Kalymnos Climbing Instruction 2016


I will be in Kalymnos starting in mid-May 2016 this season. In late spring, Kalymnos offers a perfect climbing training environment for getting ready for the climbing season in Europe. May in Kalymnos offers secure, stable weather and conditions for all-day climbing in warm, yet very comfortable temperatures before the onset of  the summer heat.

I am also planning on working with clients on Kalymnos through the summer and from the end of September through October 2016. The fall season on the island is wonderful. All-day climbing is possible, the temperatures are comfortable and the Aegean Sea is still warm and inviting for a post climb swim or rest day at the beach.


The route development on Kalymnos is second to none. You can find an almost unlimited choice of routes matching your climbing ability. Due to the make up of the routes, perfect weather and abundant climbing sectors, one can climb more in a week than in an entire season in the European Alps. There are many multi-pitch routes of up to 10 or 11 rope lengths as well as a multitude of great 2 and 3 pitch multi-pitch training routes too.


I have been going to Kalymnos for more than 10 years, actually since the beginning of the development of climbing on the island. I have a wealth of knowledge about the climbing sectors, routes and options, plus logistical knowledge of accommodations, restaurants, transfers, services, etc. I can help with giving all kinds of information, reserve accommodations, book scooter or car rental, arrange for taxi transfers, pass along current ferry transfer timetables from Kos, etc.

This means that one has the freedom and flexibility to find a inexpensive flight and allow me to help in all other areas.

To make arrangements, or get more information, contact me using the form on the right and I will gladly assist you.